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Llyn Brianne

Main Wall

70m left of the right end of the Main Wall and some 20m right of a long scree cone a very obvious right-facing corner/flake-crack leads almost to the top of the cliff. All routes described here are protected with HD bolts.

Cutting Edge, 35m, VS*.
ALW, G. Cornah and A.J.Wielochowski 18/05/08
The flake crack. Start below a birch sapling 3m up the flake line.
1. 4b. Climb to the birch tree then up the creaky flake crack (good runners, medium and some big chocks or cams) to a sloping vegetated ledge. Move 2m left then up past a peg to a bolt and hence by a broken slab to the top. Stake belay.

Razor, 35m, VS+*
ALW and G. Cornah 24/05/08
Climbs the slabby walls right of Cutting Edge a route of character. Start at a crack line 3m right of the Cutting Edge flake crackline.
1. 4c. Move up to a right facing corner, bolt and peg runner, then move up delicately to reach the bolt right of the flaky overhang. Move up awkwardly then continue passing a peg and another bolt to a natural horizontal break line. Move right past sapling to a right-facing corner, peg runner, then up past a bolt, continue easily leftwards to the top.

Close Shave, 40m, VS+**
ALW and G. Cornah 31/05/08
Climbs the slab immediately L of the overhanging flake corner right of Razor. Start just right of a massive block below the corner.
1. 4c. Climb the slab with 4 bolts and good natural protection. After the second bolt it is best to climb the slab directly (bold mantleshelf) past the third and fourth bolt (level with the top of the flake corner then up the headwall on good holds (bolt) to easy finish. Belay on stake as for Razor or use the fence a long way back.

Razor
Photo: Razor - click to enlarge

close shave
Photo: Close Shave, click to enlarge in another view

Further left the main sweep of Main Wall lies below an awkward to gain terrace. Towards its right end a substancial tree grows with its base just below terrace level. Blackendecker climbs the corner left of the tree moving left onto a steep headwall to finish.

Blackendecker, 25m, E2***.
Sion Wilcox and A.L.Wielochowski 25/07/09
1. 5b. Start below the corner which is climbed passing several bolts to a ledge below the headwall. Move steeply left past a bolt and peg, left then up, reach right for a bolt runner, then continue past a final runner to the top, various belays.

This is a well protected route offering some excellent climbing with some dubious rock on the headwall.


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Andrew Wielochowski 08/08/08.