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Photo: Hangover Buttress Area - click to enlarge.
Reservoir Dog, 35m. S *
Cosmo, 12m. E1,5b/c **
Attitude Adjustment, 35m. HVS **
Photo: Hangover Buttress detail.
Pangalactic Gargleblaster, 35m. VS-
ALW and Alexander D. Wielochowski 13/02/08.
This climbs the corner right of Attitude Adjustment. Care required with protection.
1. 15m. 4b. Gain the corner from the base of the left arete – poor rock. Up this past a spike to a peg. Swing left keeping low onto the clean slab and hence gain the top. Scramble up and right over a small step to the big spike belay below the slab above.
2. 20m. Climb the slab above the spike to the top, bolt runner.
Hangover, 20m. HVS 5a**
G. Cornah and A.L. Wielochowski 02/03/08
This climbs the grooves right of Pangalactic Gargleblaster and left of Listerine. Care with rock is required.
1. 20m. 5a. Climb a slight right-facing corner direct (bolt) or up broken pillar to the left to a niche, bolt. Clip the next HD bolt and layback up the groove then move rightwards (HD bolt) to the base of a corner (peg runner). Up the corner (bolt) to the top.
Listerine, 20m. E4 6b**
G. Cornah and S. Wilcox 16/08/09
This climbs the thin crack line immediately right of Hangover and left of Dirty Vimto.
1. Climb the steep wall just left of a vegetated corner (peg and HD bolt) to the thin crack, up this 2 pegs and HD bolt. Continue in the same line to the left end of the capping roof line. Peg and HD bolt. A good sustained technical climb marred by the easier rock either side of the true line.
Dirty Vimto, 20m. E4 6a ***
G. Cornah 03/11/07
1. A pillar of rock leads to an earthy ledge below the main wall. Start just right of the pillar on a clean slab. Climb this keeping just right of an earthy crack system to a ledge (bolt), move onto the earthy top of the pillar (pockets for flexifriends). Climb directly up from the pillar to a small ledge, peg, then up to the thin crack in the centre of the roof passing a bolt and peg runner. Follow the well-protected thin crack over the roof to the top. Stake belay.
Cheeky Half, 20m. E2 5c ***
Alcoholics Anonymous, 40m. HVS+ 5a***
Mike's Hard Lemonade, 35m. S+ .
Milk Of Amnesia, 8m. E1 5b/c*
Photo: ALW on Alcoholics Anonymous
Hair of the Dog, 40m, E1 5a/b*
ALW, G. Cornah and A.J.Wielochowski 18/05/08
The girdle of Hangover Buttress. Start at the base of Reservoir Dog.
1. 33m. 5c. Climb Reservoir Dog for 5m, traverse R to lower bolt of Attitude Adjustment, climb this past second bolt then right to peg on Pangalactic Gargleblaster. Step down then go horizontally R passing the pegs on Hangover. A difficult finger traverse move down and right gains a ledge line that leads more easily to the top bolt on Alcoholics Anonymous. Step down then awkwardly right to gain the heathery ledge of Mike's Hard Lemonade, nut belays at right end.
2. 7m. 5b. Climb back to the bolt then finish up Alcoholics Anonymous. (An easier but less pleasant finish is up Mike's Hard Lemonade.
The next routes lie 10m left of Hangover Buttress, on an orange streaked, south-west facing, steep wall bounded on the left be a steep, rotten corner with tiny bush.
Orange Safari, 12m, VS+**.
Lemon Squash, 10m, E1 5c *.
Variations such as Lemon Safari and Orange Squash are possible but standard is then inconsistent.
The wall to the right of Orange Safari can be climbed at D standard, not recommended.
15m left of Orange Safari, where the road swings north towards the car park. At the bend, just when the car park comes into view a clean groove provides an easy climb.
One for the Road, 15m, VD*
Photo: Giles Cornah on Orange Safari
TOP BRIDGE AREA
LBS, 15m, D+
The relatively clean little black slab that starts at the overspill slide level just on the lake (car park) side of the bridge.
The slab is climbed just right of the corner with some protection possible lower down. Block belays.