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Llyn Brianne

Hangover Buttress


This is the south-facing, steepest rock face directly above the access road. It is defined on the left by two broken left-facing corners and on the right by a left-facing corner with off-width cracks leading to a vegetated ledge. A narrow long roof caps the central, highest section of the face. The centre of this is split by a narrow crack. There is a slabby upper tier.
Descent: From the left end of either the first or second terrace traverse left* till a little gully cuts down to the road some 60m short of the car park.
* The traverse from the first terrace involves some easy scrambling.

    Hangover Buttress

Photo: Hangover Buttress Area - click to enlarge.

Reservoir Dog, 35m. S *
ALW and Alexander D. Wielochowski 13/02/08
At the left edge of Triangle Face is a shallow left-facing corner. This climbs the better defined corner 3m further left. Then the slab immediately above.
1. 15m. 4a. The corner crack provides a pleasant pitch. Belay on ledge above in a slight corner to the right.
2. 20m. Gain the slab above and traverse leftwards to gain a the faint arete bounding the left edge of main slab above. Follow this to top, bolt and wire runners.

Cosmo, 12m. E1,5b/c **
Sion Wilcox and ALW 29/07/10
Climbs the steep slab just right of Reservoir Dog. 3 or 4 HD bolts provide good protection. A move left to the third bolt is the crux. Thank god finishing jugs then arrive.
Cosmo Direct From the second bolt go straight up to a third bolt and hence to the top (5b).

Attitude Adjustment, 35m. HVS **
William Donaldson and ALW 01/03/08
This climbs the arete right of Reservoir Dog.
1. 15m. 5a. The arete is climbed first on the left (HD bolt) then step right to the 2nd bolt and follow the arete past another HD bolt finishing righwards. Belay in a corner above.
2. 20m. As for Reservoir Dog.

    Hangover Buttress
Photo: Hangover Buttress detail.

Pangalactic Gargleblaster, 35m. VS-
ALW and Alexander D. Wielochowski 13/02/08.
This climbs the corner right of Attitude Adjustment. Care required with protection.
1. 15m. 4b. Gain the corner from the base of the left arete poor rock. Up this past a spike to a peg. Swing left keeping low onto the clean slab and hence gain the top. Scramble up and right over a small step to the big spike belay below the slab above.
2. 20m. Climb the slab above the spike to the top, bolt runner.

Hangover, 20m. HVS 5a**
G. Cornah and A.L. Wielochowski 02/03/08
This climbs the grooves right of Pangalactic Gargleblaster and left of Listerine. Care with rock is required.
1. 20m. 5a. Climb a slight right-facing corner direct (bolt) or up broken pillar to the left to a niche, bolt. Clip the next HD bolt and layback up the groove then move rightwards (HD bolt) to the base of a corner (peg runner). Up the corner (bolt) to the top.

Listerine, 20m. E4 6b**
G. Cornah and S. Wilcox 16/08/09
This climbs the thin crack line immediately right of Hangover and left of Dirty Vimto.
1. Climb the steep wall just left of a vegetated corner (peg and HD bolt) to the thin crack, up this 2 pegs and HD bolt. Continue in the same line to the left end of the capping roof line. Peg and HD bolt. A good sustained technical climb marred by the easier rock either side of the true line.

Dirty Vimto, 20m. E4 6a ***
G. Cornah 03/11/07
A classic.
1. A pillar of rock leads to an earthy ledge below the main wall. Start just right of the pillar on a clean slab. Climb this keeping just right of an earthy crack system to a ledge (bolt), move onto the earthy top of the pillar (pockets for flexifriends). Climb directly up from the pillar to a small ledge, peg, then up to the thin crack in the centre of the roof passing a bolt and peg runner. Follow the well-protected thin crack over the roof to the top. Stake belay.

Cheeky Half, 20m. E2 5c ***
G. Cornah and ALW 18/05/08
Climbs the clean sweep of wall on the right. Start at the base of the wide earthy crack of Mike's Hard Lemonade.
1. 20m. Climb up to a thread runner. Step up then left delicately to gain a ledge (HD bolt). Move up to a higher ledge line, nut runner then HD bolt, move left place a wire in a thin crack, move up (awkward, wire on left) now up and slightly right to good holds at a break right of the overhang line. Stake belay above.

Alcoholics Anonymous, 40m. HVS+ 5a***
ALW and William Donaldson 01/03/08
As Cheeky Half but avoiding the hard upper section of that route.
1. 22m. 5b Climb up to a thread runner. Step up then left delicately to gain a ledge (HD bolt). Move up to a higher ledge line, nut runner then HD bolt, move right then step up right of an HD bolt, pass a peg runner to a thread, move left and up to the terrace. Stake belay.
2. 15m. 4c Climb the wall above on good rock staying right, runners in pockets.

Mike's Hard Lemonade, 35m. S+ .
G. M. Mavroleon and ALW 3/11/07
1. 20m. Climb the R-facing corner right of the start of Dirty Vimto. An off-width crack leads in two steps to a heathery ledge, possible belay, then broken rock and grass leads to easy ground and the stake belay above Dirty Vimto.
2. 15m. Upper tier is now climbed by a clean, steep slab of rock above, and slightly right of the top of Dirty Vimto. Terrace and a good stake belay.
Protection on this route is sparse.

Milk Of Amnesia, 8m. E1 5b/c*
Sion Wilcox and ALW 11/08/09
Climbs the thin crack splitting the wall 5m right of Mike's Hard Lemonade and just left of the culvert. Short, sharp and well-protected with small wires. Bolt (HD) belay immediately above the wall.

    Hangover Buttress
Photo: ALW on Alcoholics Anonymous

Hair of the Dog, 40m, E1 5a/b*
ALW, G. Cornah and A.J.Wielochowski 18/05/08
The girdle of Hangover Buttress. Start at the base of Reservoir Dog.
1. 33m. 5c. Climb Reservoir Dog for 5m, traverse R to lower bolt of Attitude Adjustment, climb this past second bolt then right to peg on Pangalactic Gargleblaster. Step down then go horizontally R passing the pegs on Hangover. A difficult finger traverse move down and right gains a ledge line that leads more easily to the top bolt on Alcoholics Anonymous. Step down then awkwardly right to gain the heathery ledge of Mike's Hard Lemonade, nut belays at right end.
2. 7m. 5b. Climb back to the bolt then finish up Alcoholics Anonymous. (An easier but less pleasant finish is up Mike's Hard Lemonade.

The next routes lie 10m left of Hangover Buttress, on an orange streaked, south-west facing, steep wall bounded on the left be a steep, rotten corner with tiny bush.

Orange Safari, 12m, VS+**.
G Cornah and ALW, 24/05/08
Climbs the orange streaked wall from bottom right to top left. Bolts 2, 3 and 4 are HD.
1. 5a. Starting from bottom right to gain the second bolt traverse left then straight up past a third and fourth bolt to the top. Belay well back by huge pipe.

Lemon Squash, 10m, E1 5c *.
Starts just right of the base of the rotten corner and climbs the wall moving slightly right at the 2nd bolt where it crosses Orage Safari. Continue up to same belay as for the previous route. Bridging up using the rotten corner on the first moves reduces the grade to 5b.

Variations such as Lemon Safari and Orange Squash are possible but standard is then inconsistent.

The wall to the right of Orange Safari can be climbed at D standard, not recommended.

15m left of Orange Safari, where the road swings north towards the car park. At the bend, just when the car park comes into view a clean groove provides an easy climb.

One for the Road, 15m, VD*
15/02/08
1. Climb the groove taking care with loose rock near the top. 2 bolts for protection. Belay 10m higher on tree.

    Orange Safari
Photo: Giles Cornah on Orange Safari

TOP BRIDGE AREA

LBS, 15m, D+
18/12/07
The relatively clean little black slab that starts at the overspill slide level just on the lake (car park) side of the bridge.
The slab is climbed just right of the corner with some protection possible lower down. Block belays.


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Andrew Wielochowski 4/9/2014.