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Llyn Brianne

Entrance Wall

Entrance WallThis is the first major cliff overlooking the approach road. It is south facing and dries quickly in the sun. It is divided into four tiers by three terraces. The bottom tier is short, broken and starts by the approach road. The second tier is also rather broken. Above this the second terrace is readily gained from the scree slopes right of the face. The third tier is the highest, composed of good rock and marked towards its left end with seven long bore-hole scars.

Click image to enlarge

The fourth tier is short and bounded on its left by a corner taken by Lynn. Further right is a slab then broken walls. The third terrace is best reached by going up the screes to the right then up a bracken filled deep gully past a big tree to gain the summit of Entrance Wall, a short way beyond easy slopes lead down to the terrace at its left end.

The first route climbs up the left side the face. Start 15m right of a culvert under the road and some 9m left of a borehole line marking the start of Brian.

Lucy VD+ 17/12/07
1. 15m. Up clean rock to a bulge, protection, pull left to a grassy rake. Move right then up trending left to a block belay below a short, steep, clean wall.
2. 10m. Tricky step left onto a good foothold on the left edge of the cliff. Up the arete then trend right to a point 2m left of the leftmost borehole of the third tier.
3. 20m. Up pleasantly keeping just left of the borehole line (some protection possible) till a looser finish is possible leftwards. Belay below the corner at the left edge of the fourth tier. (Lynn takes this corner.)

The following four routes find ways up the four tiers. Lynn starts right of Brian but ends up to the left of it and climbs the left two bore hole lines of the third tier, Brian the right two. Both these routes were climbed on 4/11/2007 (Giles Cornah, Ann King, ALW and Mike Mavroleon) and have been crossed over to provide for the best overall results. They are technically rarely more than VD but Brian is well protected and Lynn appreciably bolder in character. Both have their hardest climbing on the first moves of the climb and both start below a steep short wall immediately below the big tree on the first terrace.

Meander starts 3m right of the left end of the fence below the cliff.

Brian, 70m. S- **
A well-protected good introductory climb to the area. Start by road immediately below the big tree of the first terrace.
1. 15m. Climb steep rock just right of a shattered borehole scar (HD bolt in scar, then 2 bolt and a ring peg runner,) to the first terrace, belay on the tree.
2. 10m. Move up to an open corner, up this to bulge, HD bolt (ignore rusty peg to right), step left and steep move over bulge (good ring peg) continue over broken rock and scree to a stake belay on the second terrace. A ring peg 2m up can double up the belay and be a runner on pitch 3.
3. 20m. Climb the best line following the borehole scar immediately above the belay (ring peg, 3 bolts - 1 of these HD), block and jammed stake belay well back.
4. 13m. Walk right along the broad terrace to a very clean short wall below a slab with borehole scar. Stake and/or small friend in slot belay.
5. 12m. Gain the top of the smooth wall from the right then climb the slab (3 bolt runners - 2 HD) to the top. Stake Belay.

Lynn, 55m. S *
Start 5m right of Brian. 1. 15m. Climb steep rock over a bulge (bolt) just right of a clean borehole scar, then rightwards (small wire runner) to the first terrace, belay on the tree.
2. 10m. Step right across open corner of Brian to an arete, peg, and follow this to a stake belay on the second terrace (as for Brian.
3. 20m. Climb the best line following the two leftmost borehole scars left of Brian, block and jammed stake belay well back. There are 3 bolts (1 HD) and a peg runner on this pitch.
4. 10m. The corner above leads to the top of the face, stake belay. A big chock or friend useful.

Streaky Bacon, 50m. S *.
Good protection (HD bolts, chocks and friends) and some good, varied climbing.
Start a 3m. metres left of the left end of fence end at a clean left-facing corner.
1. 12m. The short clean left-facing corner has an awkward finish (bolt protection). Now up scree directly to a tiny tree.
2. 15m. The slab immediately above the tree is not as bad as it looks (bolt)! Move right below a steepening (bolt) then left over scree to the next terrace and stake belay. Direct variant: S+. Bolt belay.
3. 15m. A borehole track leads into a hole in the white streaked wall above. Follow this on poor rock (bolt runner) to the wall. Climb the wall, good runners, stepping right (bolt) then left to gain easier ground and the next terrace. High Cholesterol : Harder Variation VS 4c to left - bolt. Stake belay.
4. 8m. Right of the slabby face climbed by Brian is a broken wall, climb this on its left side, protected (wires and friends), to the top. Stake belay.

Entrance WallMeander, 55m. S+. 16/12/07.
1. 10m. Climb a short clean slab then scramble to a tiny tree.
2. 20m. Up the black slab above, delicate, to a ramp which leads right to the next terrace, walk 8m. left to a bolt belay below the white streaked wall above (Streaky Bacon).
3. 20m. Up broken slab to base of left-facing corner (runners) some 3m. right of the 2 Brian boreholes, follow this to the next terrace.
4. 10m. Over easy rotten bulge then mossy slab to the top belay as for Brian.

Question of Balance, 18m, VS *.
The slabby nose at the very right end of Entrance Wall provides a pleasant short, well-protected pitch on good rock.
1. 4c Climb the slabby nose keeping left where possible - 3 HD bolt. 8m. of climbing, 10m. of scrambling to a tree belay. 5b variation - keep to left edge on main slab. Photo to right of 4c option.


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Andrew Wielochowski 4/9/2014.